Grass-Fed Beef Stew with Root Vegetables and Atrocious Knife Skills

When it gets really cold out, we sometimes slack off a bit. We might hit the snooze button a couple extra times or procrastinate when we have to do our chores. For me, my knife skills go down the drain as the temperature falls. My knife skills aren’t that great to begin with, but I can make pretty uniform slices for a gratin and I can even fillet a fish pretty well. But that’s for warm weather. In the cold, I put ingredients on the cutting board and bat them around with my knife as if they are little cat toys. Eventually, I notice that everything is a bit smaller than it was when I began and that seems to be good enough. Into the pot it goes!

I exaggerate a little of course but there are days when I don’t want to spend much time prepping. I noticed some stew meat at the farmer’s market from New York Beef. I like these folks because they like to talk about how their meat changes with the seasons. Sometimes the beef is better marbled than other times and sometimes there are cuts that seem to be especially good that very day. They also do a great job aging their steaks which makes the flavor of their beef even richer. I believe the stew meat is pieces of chuck but I’m not sure. This recipe can be made with most cuts although I would save the more pricey tenderloin and strip steak for a different dish.

I had no beef stock on the house but I had a batch of turkey stock in the freezer leftover from the holidays. If you’re using good quality poultry bones and trimmings, your stock will be plenty rich enough for the stew. I also had around a third of a bottle of red wine that needed to be used up. Good enough. Most of us have plenty of root vegetables available to us this time of year as well as good potatoes. If your farmer has turnips, go for it. If he or she has only celery root, that works well here too. Follow your farmer’s lead and get ready to do some sloppy prep work.

So with some grass-fed stew beef, some winter veggies, frozen stock, and some VERY poor knife skills, I knew I had a good cold weather meal in my future. When it warms up, I’ll be ready to chiffonade some basil, but until the temperature breaks 0 degrees, I’m happy hacking away.

Grass-Fed Beef Stew with Root Vegetables and Atrocious Knife Skills (Farmers Market Bill $15/6 servings = $2.50/serving)

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive or vegetable oil in a frying pan on high heat

Season around a pound of stew meat salt and pepper and dust with flour

Brown the meat for 2-3 minutes per side and transfer to a dutch oven (if necessary, brown the meat in batches to make sure it all gets good color)

Using poor knife skills, chop 1.5 pounds or so of carrots, turnips, onion, celery root, potatoes, and parsnips or any combination

Add another tablespoon of oil to the pan and brown veggies for 7 minutes or so stirring occasionally (they’ll pick up some of the meat flavors)

Transfer veggies to the dutch oven

Deglaze frying pan with 2 cups of stock and a cup of red wine, scrape the bottom of the pan to make sure you get the yummy bits

Pour stock/wine mixture into dutch oven with another 4 cups of stock

Add 3 bay leaves and 2-3 whole, peeled garlic cloves, and a hefty dose of salt and pepper

Simmer on stovetop over low to medium heat or place in oven at 200 degrees

Simmer uncovered for 3 hours or longer if you can

Taste again for seasoning and salt and pepper again if necessary

Serve with some toasted ciabatta

The leftovers are even better

Roast Jackfish over Bad-Ass Green Tomatoes

Green Tomatoes are bad ass. Their red and yellow counterparts whine as soon as it gets a little chilly out. Some of the really lame ones even shrivel up and die. But green tomatoes are not so fragile and I even found one that had been sitting in my fridge for over a week and half that was perfectly fine. They do not need to be handled delicately and can often be found fried (and in the title of a good movie with Kathy Bates). I’m pretty sure that they laugh at the rest of the summer veggies that complain as soon as long sleeve season begins. Yes, green tomatoes can tolerate a lot. So can whole coldwater fish.

The folks at the farmers market had a fish called Jackfish which looked dense and that I thought could stand up to the green tomatoes. Having never cooked the fish before, I consulted one of my favorite seafood cookbooks Fish and Shellfish by James Peterson. Jim’s book is great because after each recipe, it lists some comparable fish that can be substituted if the exact fish in the recipe is not available. I’ve found that having books like this makes it far easier to eat in season because it reminds me that most recipes can be adjusted to better showcase what’s available seasonally and locally. Anyway, Jim’s book recommends 15 minutes of cooking time in a 400-450 degree oven per inch of thickness. My fish was about an inch thick. No complicated math involved.

Don’t get me wrong, I’ll be excited for the first tomatoes next season. But for a couple more weeks, these resiliant little green guys will more than suffice.

Roast Jackfish over Bad-Ass Green Tomatoes

Total Market Bill $15/3 Servings = $5/serving

Preheat oven to 425

Give a pound of green tomatoes and 3 cloves of garlic a rough chop

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in an oven safe skillet over medium heat

Add tomatoes and garlic along with some salt and pepper and saute for 10 minutes or until the tomatoes become slightly soft

Add a cup of white cooking wine, beer, or stock along with a pinch of cayenne pepper and a pinch of curry powder

Sprinkle both sides of a 1.5-3 pound whole fish generously with salt and pepper

When oven has preheated, lay fish on top of tomatoes and roast for 15 minutes per inch of thickness

I check my fish with a meat thermometer and I’ve found that once it reaches 130 degrees or so, you’re good to go. No need to check the tomatoes. They are fine whether they are sitting in a refrigerator, in a 425 degree oven, or anywhere in between.

Tomato, Goat Cheese, and Cast Iron Frittata

When people describe things as ‘lingering,’ they are usually describing things they wish would go away. (“I can’t hang out tonight because I still have this lingering head cold, but maybe next week I can come over and watch CSI Miami.”) But the farmer’s market tomatoes seem to be lingering well into October this year and they are more than welcome to stay. The last few times I’ve been shopping, I’ve found myself with a fun mishmosh of groceries. There are new greens in season now, lots of herbs, and the beginning of the hearty squashes of fall and winter. It’s sometimes nice to have some recipes that allow you to use whatever you have around. I love soups for this but they can take a long time. I wanted a quicker meal that was inexpensive and fun to serve to a group. I also wanted another recipe that would make great use of end of the season tomatoes which could be a little softer as well as the delicious local cheeses that I’ve been seeing lately at the market.

I think of frittatas like quiches without the pain of the crust. I also don’t bother with a non stick pan as I’m not quite sure what might happen to my body if I ingest teflon regularly (although I’d like to grow a tail someday). But a well seasoned cast iron skillet is ideal for cooking egg dishes and the food lifts right off the surface. I also love the fact that the dish looks so rustic and guests seem to love almost anything served in an iron skillet. So get your cast iron pans out, see what your farmers market has to offer and let’s get cooking.

Tomato, Goat Cheese and Cast Iron Fritatta

Farmers Market Bill $12/6 servings = $2/serving

Crack 6 fresh eggs into a bowl and beat with whisk or fork

Slice 2 large tomatoes thinly

Crumble 3 oz. or so of goat cheese in a small bowl

Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a 6-8 inch cast iron skillet over medium heat

Add eggs and a heafty pinch of salt and pepper

Cook over medium heat for 2 minutes then sprinkle half the goat cheese over the eggs

Cook for an additional minute and then layer tomato slices throughout

Cook until fritatta has set (around 3 more minutes)

Sprinkle the remaining goat cheese over the top

If frittata is too loose, finish in 400 degree oven for 5 minutes or so

Sprinkle the top with some fresh herbs if you have them. If not, it’s fine by itself. Well, better than fine. It’s really as delicious lunch. I enjoyed this one with my grandmother.

Mussels with Tomatoes and Garlic

Thanks to all who have contributed their favorite tomato recipes! All have been wonderful and I’ll be posting some of them over the next few days. and I was surprised to see how many of my Jewish friends emailed me some decidedly un-Kosher tomato recipes involving shellfish. Perhaps when Hannukah comes around, I’ll have to reach out to my religious Christian friends and ask them to stop planning Christmas dinner and help me out with some tips for the perfect latke.

But yes, tomatoes seem to go very well with shellfish. There are lots of recipes out there for red clam sauces and even Portuguese stews with clams and tomatoes. Some have hot pepper and sausages and other delicious things but the simplest seems to be the one that my sister and her husband made recently. They were even so kind as to email me some pictures. So, I think I’ll steal from the various recipes that people have sent and come up with a good general game plan. The important thing though, is that this time of year, many of us have access to local shellfish and much of it is sustainable. Shellfish brought in daily to the farmers market is simply one of the best foods we have available to us at any time of year. The farmers markets are also full of tomatoes right now and even if they aren’t as perfect as the ones from the middle of August, they are ideal with the briny taste of fresh shellfish. Don’t do too much and make sure you make extra for the next day. And also, after church on Sunday, start thinking about what you might want to eat at your Hanukkah party this year.

Mussels with Tomatoes and Garlic (Serves 4)

Mince 4 cloves of garlic and chop a pound of farmer’s market tomatoes (the type of tomato is not important here and you can even use ‘seconds’ that might be a little bruised. You can take the seeds out if you like but it’s not necessary)

Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat in a large frying pan (one that has a cover) and add garlic

Saute for 4 minutes or until fragrant

Add tomatoes and a cup of white wine

Increase heat to medium/high and add a small pinch of salt, some ground pepper and a pinch of red pepper flakes

Bring mixture to a simmer

While tomato mixture simmers, rinse or scrub 2 pounds of fresh mussels

Add mussels, increase heat to high and cover

Check in 3 minutes. Mussels are ready when they are all open. Discard any that haven’t opened after 5 or 6 minutes.

Taste sauce for seasoning. The liquids from the mussels will add a wonderful briny flavor but if you feel it needs more salt, go ahead

Serve with some slices of crusty bread

Squash Surplus (Squash and Cheddar Pancakes with Corn Salad)

Here in NH and on much of the East Coast, people seem to be trying to get rid of extra squash. Yes it’s one of the most delicious and beautiful vegetables but there seems to be too much of it. Too much organic squash might be a problem for a few people but I put it low on the list of the world’s food related problems. On the way up here, I was offered squash from my sister’s garden as well as from my Aunt’s upstate. Both had plenty of extra and I was happy to take it. On the way to my father’s house here in Concord, NH I saw a bucket of squash by the side of the road with a sign that said “Please leave a quarter for each squash.” Good enough.

So I had a lot of squash to use. The squash in New England is wonderful and it costs very little. Along the squash, my father had some leftovers in his fridge that he wanted to use up before going on vacation. There was a block of cheese from Sandwich Creamery, small creamery that makes wonderful cheddar and ice cream. He also had a couple ears of corn from a small farm near his home, an onion, and a half a yellow tomato. These squash pancakes are filling and a raw corn salad was perfect for cutting through the richness of the dish.

Groceries $3.00/ 2 servings = $1.50 /serving

Grate a pound of yellow squash and half and onion on the largest-holed side of a box grater

Squeeze water out of squash and wrap in a kitchen towel to absorb any additional moisture

Grate 3/4 cup of sharp cheddar

Sprinkle mixture with salt and pepper and mix together

Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a cast iron skillet over medium high heat

Shape squash mixture into 2-3 inch diameter patties around an inch thick carefully place in pan

Cook without moving them for 4 minutes, flip and do the same on the other side

While pancakes are cooking, cut the kernels off 2 ears of fresh corn and dice up the other half an onion and the tomato. You could also dice up a cucumber here if you wish.

Add some salt and pepper to corn mixture. To plate, serve pancakes in the middle of the plate and spoon corn salad over the top.

The cheese keeps these pancakes from getting super crispy but the trade off is well worth it. The combination of fresh corn with the melted local cheddar somehow gives the flavor of a perfect southern cornbread despite their being no bread involved.

I’m quite hungry now. Perhaps I should go door to door and see if anyone has any fresh squash cluttering up the house that they want to get rid of. If they can spare the squash, I can certainly spare the 15 minutes it takes make these scrumptious pancakes.

3 Minute Meals

I really enjoy 30 Minute Meals on Food Network. In fact, I like almost any task that can be completed in 30 minutes or less. I would have gone to law school if there had been a 3o minute version and I don’t mind getting my teeth cleaned if I’m certain it won’t last more than 30 minutes. But like most of you out there, I feel 30 minutes is far too long to be in the kitchen. Yes, if 30 minutes is great, 3 minutes must be 10 times more enjoyable. That’s indirect variation which can be solved by finding the value of the constant k but that’s not the point of this post.

Scallops cook faster than almost any other main course that I like to make. When you come across scallops as fresh as the ones I’ve been getting at the market, you’re best bet is to cook them in a very hot pan for around 90 seconds per side. I’ve found wonderful scallops from both Pura Vida and Blue Moon. I also found some local pickled veggies that I diced up and served on top of each scallop along with some sauteed arugula. They are nice looking when they come out of the pan and they have a sweetness I’ve never tasted even from scallops from a high end fish market. They’re wonderful and they take only 3 minutes out of your precious day.

Seared Scallops with Arugula and Pickled Veggies

Drizzle olive oil in 2 frying pans and set one to high and one to medium

I wait until the hot one is smoking before adding the scallops

Season Scallops with salt and pepper and place in the hotter pan for 90 seconds

While the scallops are cooking, add a few handfuls of arugula (or other green) to the medium pan and sprinkle with salt and pepper

After 90 seconds, turn scallops and stir spinach

Cook another 90 seconds. Cut into one of the scallops. It is best when it’s slightly pink in the inside

To plate, place scallops on plate and top with a spoonful of sauteed greens.

Chop up a pickled cucumber, string bean, or whatever you can find and put a small piece on top of each scallop. (You can skip this step but it adds a nice acidity and crunch).

Eat well.


BBQ Spring Training

$25/6 meals = $4.16 per serving.

One of the downsides of living in New York is that it’s very hard to barbecue without doing something either unsafe or illegal. While I’m happy to take some risks, I’d rather not find myself with a summons from the city for grilling on the sidewalk. So when I found out I’d be visiting my dad in NH for the week, I checked the weather and decided that overcast skies and 50 degree weather sounded like nearly ideal cookout conditions compared to what I was used to. It was time to fire up the grill.

The Concord, NH Farmer’s Market was not scheduled to open for another month or so and my favorite local farms were closed as well. So we were off to the Concord Co-op which sources vegetables, dairy, eggs and meats from nearby I knew we were about to get flooded with the early spring vegetables, but for now, the late winter vegetables would have to do. My father is a big fan of chicken so I wanted to see what might be available.

Misty Knoll is a VT poultry farm that raises very good chickens and turkeys ( For those of you who haven’t grilled a farm raised chicken, the difference in the quality of the meat (particularly the breast meat) is striking. Overly lean factory farmed chicken meat just can’t remain moist and flavorful on a hot grill. Give the better chicken a shot and the difference will be very clear. The Misty Knoll chickens weighed about 3.5 pounds and are sold fresh for around $4.20 a pound. The cost of the bird was $15 and a nice bag of organic parsnips, carrots and sunchokes ran me about $8. We also found a piece of a deliciously sharp raw milk cheese called Landaff ($3), also a NH product ( It’s nutty and almost a little ‘citrusy’ and would be perfect with a spoonful of jam for dessert. That brought our total grocery bill to $25.

During the summer, I love to grill fish or meat along with lots of summer veggies like yellow squash and peppers. In the winter, I tend to use heartier winter vegetables that work better roasted for a long period of time. I essentially wanted to make a dish on the grill that I usually make in the oven. Not too hard actually. I started by drizzling some olive oil and lemon juice over the cut up chicken and vegetables along with some salt and pepper. Over a hot grill, I cooked the chicken pieces skin side down and then turned them. Then, I added the veggies to the grill and placed the chicken pieces on top. People roast vegetables in the same pan with meats because the juices and fats from the meat flavor the veggies and help them to cook more evenly. Why not try the same thing on the grill? While most of the juices would be lost to the fire, some would no doubt season the vegetables along with the smoke from the fire. When the meal was plated, we realized, we had another chicken breast for the next day along with most of the trimmings and carcass which could very easily be made into a chicken soup for later. We even had a handful of extra sunchokes which could make the soup even nicer. So along with the 3 dinner servings, we had more than enough for at least 3 more lunches or dinners with the leftovers and 0 court appearances for violating the NYC Fire Code.

Slow Grilled Chicken with Winter Vegetables

Slow Grilled Chicken with NH Root Vegetables

Cut up one chicken into, wings, legs/thighs, and 2 breast halves

Season all pieces with salt and pepper and drizzle the juice of one lemon over the meat with around a tablespoon of olive oil

Rinse 1.5 pounds of carrots, parsnips, and sunchokes and season them in a bowl as you did the chicken

Preheat a gas grill to high or light a charcoal grill and wait until briquettes are entirely gray

Place chicken skin side down and leave for 5-7 minutes

Scatter seasoned vegetables around the grill, turn chicken pieces and place them on top of vegetables

Cover grill and leave for 25 minutes (15 if using a hot charcoal grill)

Check internal temperature with a meat thermometer. Breast meat should be around 155 and dark meat closer to 165

If breast meat cooks sooner, remove from grill and cover loosely with foil.

If you’d like, drizzle the cooked chicken and veggies with some additional lemon juice or olive oil.

This meal is best with beer. Drink it. Enjoy.